Pieter de Lange writes: I’d like to introduce you to an inspirational woman from Sandton, Johannesburg – Dia Coetzee Carstens, who is not only pretty and smart, but lethal too. She has a third Dan in Taekwondo. She is also a Taekwondo world champion double medalist. She is the proud mom of twin boys; Armand and Roald, who will be starting their second year as full-time medicine students at Wits soon.
Dia loves the outdoors, so she decided to walk the 320 km Camino Primitivo in northern Spain in celebration of her 50th birthday. The Camino Primitivo is the original Camino pilgrimage that starts in Oviedo, Asturias and ends in Santiago de Compostela in scenic Galicia.
Dia first learned about the Camino when a friend mentioned it over dinner as something on her bucket list about 15 years ago. She looked up the history and discovered that it was created and established by King Alfonso II of Spain after the discovery of the relics of Saint James the Great at the beginning of the ninth century. The Way of St James became a major pilgrimage route of medieval Christianity from the tenth century onwards.
Dia was not fazed by the prospect of walking 320 kilometres over 15 days on her own. She is used to travelling solo and greatly enjoys her own company. She has done an array of adventure walks including the Everest Base Camp trek and the Annapurna Circuit trek in Nepal, and in 2012 she also she scaled Kilimanjaro; the highest peak in Africa.
Although the Camino is intended as a pilgrimage, many people walk it for non-religious reasons and enjoy it simply as a beautiful hike with exquisite scenery. Dia was looking forward to a fantastic hike in nature and to explore more of fascinating and beautiful northern Spain; a part of Spain she hasn’t explored before. She shared with me that the nature of walking long distances each day, combined with rhythmic and heavy breathing at times allow one to fall into deep states of meditation, which automatically makes it spiritual. That state of mind becomes addictive. For her, the overriding memory of the Camino Primitivo is the “sheer, overwhelming natural beauty which makes one feel incredibly small at times.”
Dia’s colourful descriptions of her often-challenging daily walks through Asturias and Galicia and local adventures are not only fascinating and riveting to read but is an affirmation of her inexhaustible joie de vivre! Here are some of her diary entries on the blog she created for friends and family who wanted to share in her daily adventures:
2 September 2023 – Oviedo
I arrived in Asturias. But more importantly, my luggage arrived in Asturias – relief! I am in the taxi on my way to Oviedo. It is wet, cloudy and drizzling, but so beautiful, lush and green. I cannot wait to start my walk on Monday.
Oviedo is famous for its apple cider. That is what one drinks in the restaurants here – it comes in one size – a 700 ml bottle with 6% alcohol and there’s an entire ritual of pouring it into the glass to aerate it to create bubbles to enhance the flavour.
The verdict is that our South Africa mass-produced Savanna is far tastier. Their’s is also dry, but you can’t drink it! I hope I find my way back to the hotel later tonight after I finish the bottle.
PS: Thank you to myself for my commitment to 109 days of Duolingo’s Spanish practice. My basic Spanish seems to be much better than anyone else’s English. Who knows, after finishing the 700 mls of apple cider, I might just become fluent.
Day 2 in Oviedo – I realise that I’m really enjoying Spain. I just wish it wasn’t so Spanish. It turns out I’m not fluent and 109 days of Duolingo is not sufficient. The highlight of my day was that I received my first stamp in the Credential de Peregrino Carnet de Pelerin – the Camino “passport” in short. One needs this passport and all the stamps to earn the compostela in Santiago de Compostela. The stamps are collected along the way, and one has to collect a minimum of two stamps per day for the last 100 kilometres of the walk.
45 million litres annually.
4 September 2023, day 1 of walking: Oviedo – Grado
My first day of walking was just lovely! I started early at 06:00 and left while it was still pitch-dark; specifically, to beat the predicted rain around midday. I only saw two other hikers along the way – an old man and a young man. Both passed me because I stopped to take pictures, literally smell the roses, pet the cats, cows, and horses on the side of the trail. I know this Camino is not a race nor a competition, but I couldn’t help myself to try beat them to Grado. I am happy to announce that I won the race convincingly!
I was ravenous when I arrived in Grado. I didn’t have breakfast before I set out this morning, I did have a protein shake about three hours into the hike and a GU around five hours into the hike. It was siesta time or something when I arrived in Grado, as everything was closed. I managed to find one café open on the town square where I was able to order something. I ordered not one or two baguettes with ham and tomato, but three baguettes (the only food on their menu) and I wolfed it down with an Aquarius – a sports drink with electrolytes. I ate while I was waiting for the hotel to get my room ready. They upgraded me to their only apartment as opposed to the single room I booked. The apartment has a washing machine and I have NEVER been happier to see one! Of course, I have no detergent and Sta-Soft with me, but I can safely say that Johnson’s Baby Shampoo did the trick just as well.
With only the shorts I walked in today and one other pair of long hiking pants in my backpack, two extra T-shirts and three extra pairs of socks, it is necessary to wash everyday … especially at the rate I’m sweating in this hot and humid climate.
Rural Spain is exquisitely beautiful. It’s hard to capture landscapes in pictures. It was a successful first day. I have a heart full of gratitude.
5 September 2023, Grado – Salas
It was another lovely day on the Camino. I decided to start an hour later this morning. I did not want to walk in the dark again. I’m so fortunate with the weather. It was warm and balmy and humid yesterday and didn’t rain while I was out. The sunrise today was breathtakingly beautiful; simply spectacular! I’ll post some pictures – no photos were edited, and no filters were used, I promise.
I read up a lot before I started this Camino. The one thing that struck me was the number of people who commented and wrote; “Don’t ever worry, the Camino will provide.”
Today, the Camino provided a street sweeper to show me the way out of Grado, an American pilgrim and his Spanish guide who showed me the correct pathway leaving town, and a kind man who stopped on a winding mountain pass to tell me I’m walking on the wrong road – he promptly told me to get into his car and drove me back to the right turnoff – all the while talking to me non-stop in Spanish assuming I understood every word. Yes, I willingly got into the car of a stranger without even thinking about it – my mom would be horrified! (I had an inkling that I was on the wrong road and frantically tried to find an online map, but by then I had already reached the summit of the mountain – thankfully I hadn’t arrived at the next village yet.)
Yes, I am walking without a map. The Camino will provide, right? The directions are usually very clear, and the route is frequently signposted with yellow arrows and yellow Camino “shells”.
What the Camino didn’t provide today was single accommodation with an en-suite bathroom. I booked all my accommodation in advance but there was no single-room accommodation available in Salas when I made the reservations.
The innkeeper confirmed again what a busy season it is this year. So, I’m in a dormitory room, sharing with six other pilgrims tonight. The room has bunk beds – I kid you not – we even have shared ablution facilities. It feels like I’m 12 years old and on a church camp. Roald called it a shambles when I told him on the phone – he is not wrong!
But I also read that the Camino will challenge you. Today’s accommodation is my first challenge. If the other roommates do not snore tonight, I think I’ll be OK.
I arrived safely at La Figal de Xugabolos Albergue around lunchtime. I showered and I’m done with my laundry. I’m now sitting under an apple tree watching my laundry dry while drinking a cappuccino and reading a hot and steamy novel on my Kindle.
The scenery here is so beautiful … the people are friendly and helpful, albeit even more Spanish than in Oviedo. I’m acutely aware of the privilege of being here on this wonderful journey. I have a heart full of gratitude.
7 September 2023, Tineo – Pola de Allande
I arrived at a very festive Pola de Allande! Monday afternoon. Kilometre 100 of this walk. There is some or other festive celebration taking place here. Everyone seems to be on the streets and/or sitting in the bars and coffee shops surrounding the town square listening to the live music. There will be fireworks at 01:00 tomorrow morning according to the hotel keeper – a jovial Humpty Dumpty lookalike viejo (my Spanish is better than you think!) He handed me a pair of earplugs for tonight. I wonder how that’s going to work for me, since the bar is situated directly below my window, the discotheque is across the road from my room and the square with live band is situated 30 metres down the road.
I am now sitting down for the first time today. I am sore in places I never knew I had. I have booked accommodation in Hotel Nueva de Alendessa – only a two-star hotel, but in this town, it is the best hotel. Frankly, it is the only hotel. There are only albergues. It feels like I stepped into a different era. The bedroom walls are egg-yolk yellow, a traditional bedspread drapes over the hollow mattress and there are solid wood bedside tables with corners so sharp one could commit suicide on them. But, it is charming and clean.
Hotel Alendessa has a proper dining saloon like the hotels from yesteryear. White damask tablecloths, thin washed-out white folded cloth napkins, friendly camareros with white button long-sleeve shirts and black trousers and white napkins over their arms. I’m in my element, life cannot get better than this, that I am certain of.
Food has been an issue on my journey up to now and it occupied much of my thoughts today. But, today the Camino provided Hotel Nueva Alendessa. I’m so relieved and thankful. In fact, I was so excited when I saw the dining hall upon check-in that I showered and washed my clothes in 13 minutes flat. Getting down from my room on the second floor back down to the dining hall on the ground floor, might have taken the same amount of time though …
I started my journey again at 07:00 this morning. It was dark when I left and the party from the previous evening was still in full swing across the road in the discotheque. I was thankful for the two hikers behind me with their headlamps on. I did not bring a headlamp … I was advised to rather use the flashlight on my cell phone to save a few grams of weight in my backpack. Today I was so glad I saved those few grams of weight in my backpack.
It is peaceful to be walking in the dark quiet hours of the morning before the sun rises. The birds are singing and the ringing of cattle bells sound like music. Even the horses wear these bells around their necks. The “sound” of the Camino to me is without a doubt the melodic ringing of the cowbells.
Since I am now in the mountains, the day started off this morning in Tineo with a hectic climb. It also means that cell phone reception was intermittent to non-existent. Stressful at times, since I rely heavily on my online map these days. But today, the Camino provided frequent, regular and clear signage all along the route. I had the strangest sensation on the tops of my feet when I started walking this morning. For the first two hours it felt like they were on fire, literally burning. I had read about this condition on one of the online Camino forums, but I cannot remember what it is; I’ll have to do some investigation later.
What the Camino didn’t provide today was an easy hike. It was uphill upon uphill, upon downhill and then some more uphill. And, to end the day off, the Camino provided a 2,5 km steep downhill slope heading into town – agony! For me, between the uphill and the downhill, the flat roads win every time. I’m not sure I have enough adjectives in all of my vocabularies to describe the beauty of today’s walk. I am Afrikaans, I’m fluent in English, I can speak a little Italian and apparently even less Spanish. What the hike lacked in ease, it made up for in beauty.
Perhaps it was a good thing the internet didn’t work because I flooded Wikilocs with pictures. And again, like all the previous days, one simply cannot capture the vistas and panoramas. It is vast and expansive and majestic and breathtaking, and it drives me to tears when I think about the marvelous creation I witnessed today. The best way I can describe it to make it a bit relatable is this way: it is the best and most beautiful combination of the lush rolling hills of KwaZulu-Natal in summer, the spectacular views and vistas of Mpumalanga (think God’s Window and the Blyde River canyon), the overwhelming beauty of the majestic Drakensberg mountains, the tranquility and serenity of the indigenous Knysna forests, the charm and elegance of the Western Cape, and the simplicity and authenticity of the Free State farmlands … all in one!
But hell, it was a tough and long day. I didn’t stop once and kept moving for six solid hours – slow in places, slower in other places and fast on the few flat roads: 40 000 steps and 2,5 litres of sweat loss according to my Garmin watch. One apple, one orange, one GU and 2,5 litres of water that ran out on kilometer 20 – there were at least eight more kilometers to go. It was hot and very humid.
PS: My lunch is done. I ate my body weight in the most delicious Asturian cuisine, the best, the tastiest, the most nutritious and wholesome meal I have had in Spain to date. The cute camarero brought me two portions of dessert because I asked “más, por favor” while pointing at it with my finger. I ordered the Menu del Peregrino for 17 euros on his recommendation. It came with four delicious courses. I succumbed and had a sweet glass of sangria too. Indulgence!
I have mentioned that the food has been an issue on this walk. I have read well before I embarked on the Camino that the food is not fabulous in the Asturias, but I never realised that it would be so limited in terms of variety. Asturians basically eat dry bread. Or, dry bread with ham and cheese. Or, dry bread with cheese. Or, dry bread with ham. Or, potatoes; fried, boiled, steamed and potato salad with mayonnaise on a good day. Or, pastries and biscuits with strong black coffee. I do not eat or drink any of these things for various reasons. I have a gluten intolerance, potatoes give me gout due to its acidity, and the caffeine in coffee causes severe heart palpitations. I had a potato tart for breakfast in Oviedo one morning and ended up taking Colchicine the next morning – I had a very painful big toe on my left foot!
So, I haven’t really been eating on this trip up to now. I have been buying nuts, yoghurt, and fresh fruits from the Alimerkas (local grocery stores) where possible. I am however eternally grateful for the two kilograms of protein shake powder I am lugging around in my backpack.
But, today … TODAY WAS A GREAT DAY!
PS: When I started walking this morning, I thought I was going to solve the problem of world peace, because one has so much time to think while walking. I must confess that my thoughts are either empty or focused on the sheer beauty in front of me. So much so, that it dawned on me today the reason I get lost so often is due to the fact that I don’t pay enough attention to the way markers – I’m distracted by the beauty of nature. Maybe tomorrow I’ll focus better …
Spain was showing off today – it was a magnificent day. I’ll post some pictures. I am so privileged to be here. My heart is brimming with gratitude.
16 September 2023, Melide – Arzua
I woke up this morning to pouring rain and thunder. Thankfully it’s a short walk to Arzua, so I can leave a little bit later. Waiting to see if the rain will subside. It does mean that I won’t see the old city of Melide though. As mentioned before, hiking and rain don’t go foot-in-boot for me.
In the end, I managed to have breakfast, walked through the old city, and finished an entire day of walking without any rain. Today I walked with Yasmin, José-Mario and Carlos from Costa Rica. The road was busy with many hikers. The very popular (and much easier) Camino Frances converge with the Camino Primitivo in Melide. The Primitivo hikers seem visibly fitter and in better shape than the Frances pilgrims. When I decided on choosing which Camino to walk, I went for the most difficult and challenging one, which inevitably means it is less busy.
The four of us consciously walked slowly today and stopped frequently as we all realised this incredible journey is nearing the end. The walk was beautiful again and went through forests, lush farmland and rolling hills. The Costa Ricans introduced me to their Latin American music – it was so festive and much fun! They translated the lyrics of the music to me … goodness me! They are a “hot” and sexy bunch of people. Quite the education. I have learnt much – this day was most definitely not wasted.
Arzua is beautiful and small and quaint and very Spanish. Arriving in Arzua, the weather is brewing a big rainstorm when I look at the ominous clouds in the grey sky. Lunch was delicious. It was a shakshuka-type starter and fatty beef stew with potatoes for the main course. An afternoon of rest after waking up to fireworks again in Melide at 01:00 this morning. Celebration seems to follow me – how lucky am I?
Each day I am acutely aware of the privilege of being on this Camino. I am so grateful for the experience – I have a heart filled with gratitude.
18 September 2023, Arzua to O’Pedrouza
Today is a short 18 km walk to O’Pedrouza. It will be hillier than yesterday, but hopefully just as beautiful. So much excitement! It is the last day in the villages before I arrive in the great Santiago de Compostela tomorrow … the finish line of this incredible journey.
I started a bit later again to savour everything. What an incredible hike it was this morning! Beautiful indigenous pine forests, streams, and farmlands. It was green, lush and a lovely breeze cooled us down. Sooooo many pilgrims though. The Camino Del Norte meet up with the Camino Primitivo and the Camino Frances along the way to Melide too. It was busy to say the least. I stopped at two bars to get the obligatory stamps for the day and there were actual queues.
All in all, it was another short, but fantastic day. My feet are so much better, although I think I have a blister developing on one of my toes – Hiker’s Wool will sort me out! I am on my way to lunch with the Costa Ricans, so the day can only get better.
O’Pedrouza is small and beautiful and quaint, and oh so very Galitian. Here they speak a dialect of Spanish, so my 109 days of Duolingo and all my Spanish practice on this journey are officially redundant. Even the Costa Ricans complain that they don’t understand the Spanish the Galitians speak here. We all just resort to speaking in English – it makes life easy. Often the locals don’t understand our English, so we speak our pure version of Spanish to them and suddenly, they understand. Difficult people, these Galitians.
We have walked 300 kilometres thus far. Tomorrow we are doing the last 20 … Santiago de Compostela is calling. A fantastic privilege. My heart is still overflowing with gratitude.
18 September 2023, O’Pedrouza – Santiago de Compostela
Leaving O’Pedrouza on a cool and misty morning, we walk through forests and farmlands amongst hundreds of other pilgrims; each on their own mission, with their own thoughts, ailments, and disabilities.
We finally arrived in beautiful Santiago and the atmosphere is festive and joyous – fatigued pilgrims lying on their backpacks on the square in front of the exquisite ancient cathedral resting their tired legs, savouring their achievement, and enjoying the sense of accomplishment. It was a fantastic walk today – another 10/10-day!
The Camino … The Way – what an unintentional pilgrimage it turned out to be. I have so many thoughts and emotions on this incredible experience; it is overwhelming. It’s so super hard to put everything into words.
I set off with a mindset of enjoying a hike in nature, while celebrating my 50 years on earth. I’m so lucky and blessed that it turned out to be so much more. The Camino has a way of providing, challenging, and giving back. Each day, every day, consistently.
I knew I was fit, physically ready and prepared for the 320 kilometres, but what I wasn’t prepared for was how “The Way” was going to change “my way”: physically, mentally, and spiritually or emotionally.
Physically I am stronger, fitter, leaner and more toned. Physically my muscles are fatigued, yet so strong and energised, craving more pain. (I am sure my body will not know what to do with itself tomorrow morning when it wakes up and there’s no 20 or 30 kilometres of walking ahead).
The mental challenge? I have passed with flying colours. I am powerful and I am strong, and I am capable of so much more than I give myself credit for. I am a work of art and a masterpiece created by the Great Creator! On the challenging and difficult days, my mental fitness gave me the grit to continue with the constant and consistent uphills and downhills, the heat and humidity, experiencing the inconvenient rain at times and walking in the cold morning air.
Spiritually or emotionally I’m different. To witness this beauty and creation and to realise one’s insignificance is humbling, life-changing and necessary. The camaraderie and friendships forged, the points of view of all the people from all the different cultures, the different expressions and languages were all mind-altering, the laughter and jokes shared over meals, the thoughts that got lost in translation were all priceless experiences that I will cherish in my heart forever. I have enough memories to last a lifetime, while suffering and celebration were a constant theme on this Camino too.
The Way provided mental clarity; everything became a little clearer with each step and each day passing. I need more time to digest everything though. But, the same? I can never be the same again. I have truckloads of gratitude in my heart.
Finally, the answer to the problem on how to obtain world-peace? Love! Love thy neighbour like you love yourself. Love conquers all. Buen Camino!
Image: Getty Images/ Unsplash
