Out and About is a feature in which we chat with people who are currently living overseas or who used to live and work there. This week we chat with Erika le Grange from Oman.
Where do you live and why there?
I have been a teacher in the Middle East for fifteen years. It was nice to come over with my sister and share the experience together for a few years. I was in Qatar first. Currently I am in Oman and I live in Muskat. Oman is the jewel of the Middle East with beautiful mountains, sand dunes and beaches. Omanis are very friendly and kind to Westerners. I live here for adventure and travel possibilities, and I am able to save enough money for when I go back home. In the Middle East you cannot get permanent residence and you are not able to immigrate there. You therefore only get a work visa that can be renewed.
Was it a big adjustment?
When I first landed in Qatar in 2007, it felt as if I was stepping into a hot oven when I got off the plane. It is incredibly hot here and it feels as if we are located next to hell. Summer temperatures range between 40 and 55 degrees Celsius and the humidity is very high. Fortunately, there is air conditioning in all the buildings, which makes it more bearable. The fact that Thursday is “Friday” and Friday is “Saturday” is confusing. Working on Sundays also still feels strange.
Non-Muslim women do not have to cover themselves, however, shoulders and legs are not allowed to be visible in public. It takes quite a lot of wardrobe planning, and you are liable for a huge fine if you do not respect this rule. Driving in the traffic here is gut-wrenching. There is no such thing as “quickly going to the shops”. The shops stay open late, and it is strange to see people hustling and bustling in the shops at that time. In state departments there are separate queues and rooms for men and women, which means that women are served much quicker. The tap water here is desalinated water from the sea, so you can only drink bottled water. Sandstorms can be severe. So, the culture shock was huge!
What do you enjoy most about life in Oman?
Living and teaching here broadens my horizons and personal growth. I enjoy meeting people from around the world, the extravagant shopping centres, and the warm sea water. Everything is very clean, and the infrastructure is impressive. Life here is very peaceful and safe. Arabic food is not really my thing, since everything is served with yellow rice. At least you can find many South African products here such as Mrs Balls, rooibos tea, and dry wors and biltong if you look hard enough. Your salary is tax free, and teachers are paid well. It makes the sacrifice worth it.
What do you miss the most?
I miss everything about our beautiful country. What I miss the most is my family and friends. I also miss the freedom of just being human and living without all the restrictions and rules. And of course, rugby and braai on Saturdays and our good wine!
What do you do to relax over weekends?
Here you live for the weekend which starts on Thursday. You set off to the closest beach and it is like a holiday on a tropical island. The water is clear and almost feels like bath water, but it can become too warm during the summer months. On Fridays there are buffets at the hotels, which are very popular, but way too expensive for me to enjoy regularly. I prefer to rather spend time in nature, such as snorkeling, going out on a boat, or relaxing on a beach.
Is it expensive to live there?
It has become very expensive to live here, especially since sales tax and sin tax were introduced. Clothes are also very expensive when compared with South Africa. Even the price of fuel, that used to be dirt cheap a few years ago, has gone up. In order to buy alcohol, you have to pay for a licence and this forbidden fruit is very expensive here. A glass wine will set you back R150. All the places that serve alcohol are located inside the expensive hotels and a night out will cost you a small fortune.
How did you survive when Covid broke out?
It was the most difficult time ever when the pandemic hit us. Life changed completely and I doubt it will ever be the same again. The schools closed on 15 March 2020 and I will never forget it. We had to start educating online without any time for preparation or knowledge on how it should be done. I had to learn and adapt very quickly. It was very hard work and hours of hours of preparation. The lockdown was very bad when everything closed and the streets went silent for a month. You were only allowed to visit the shops to buy food. Every day I wished I could rather be in South Africa. It was a sad time and I really missed home. I couldn’t go home for the two-month summer holiday. Legislations here is very strict and you cannot go anywhere without proof of immunisation. Flying home to South Africa for the holidays is very difficult, as flights are often cancelled at the last minute. I was lucky, by hook or by crook, to be able to spend every Christmas with my family in South Africa.
Where in South Africa are you originally from and what made you decide to go live overseas?
I am from Cape Town and the reason I decided to spread my wings was to be able to explore and experience the world myself. I look forward to returning to South Africa once this book is finally closed.
